How Expensive is an Audi B8 S4 3.0T 115K Mile Service?

Why is servicing important?

Regular servicing of a vehicle is crucial for maintaining performance, reliability, and safety. While it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle will never break down, it significantly improves the odds. Everything ages, and servicing serves as a preventative step to mitigate the impact of aging. Old fluids such as oil and coolant accelerate the aging process drastically, and these are some of the easiest components to change.

We spend so much on improving the performance of a car and I want that performance to be available every time I drive it!

Everything that was done in the Audi B8 S4 Service

Direct from the local Audi dealer, the 115K service includes: engine oil & filter, transmission oil & filter, spark plugs, engine air filter and cabin air filter. The transmission pan needs to come off to replace the transmission filter, so gasket, drain/fill plugs and pan bolts are also required.

Parts (for 2010 B8 S4 – always check with your dealer for VIN specific part numbers):

• DSG Fluid (6-7): LM20044
• Pan bolts (15): N91096801
• Trans filter O-Ring (1): WHT003379
• Drain plug washer(1): N0138275
• Drain plug(1): WHT005282
• Trans filter(1): 0B5325429E
• Oil pan gasket(1) 0B5321371F
• Spark plugs(6): 101905631G
• Cabin Air Filter(1): 8K0819439B
• Air Filter(1): 8K0133843

DIY vs Dealer 

It is my personal preference to do all of the maintenance on my vehicles myself. It is not to say that the dealer does a bad job; I have just had a few issues in the past, and at least this way, I only have myself to blame and know exactly what was done. Unfortunately, some dealers pay their service technicians based on book rates. If a job has a book rate of 3 hours, the technician will be paid for 3 hours of work, even if it only takes them an hour. This rewards speed, which doesn’t always lead to quality.

How much does it cost?

I called Audi and they quoted me $2,000 to perform the 115,000 mile service.

In total, all of the parts (full details in the video) came to a whopping $417.29! That means I saved over $1,500 by doing this work myself. This of course doesn’t take into account any labor but the job inly takes a couple of hours.

Check out the video for all the details on the Audi B8 S4 115K Service including DSG. 

Video: 115K Service on my Audi S4 including DSG

Audi B8 S4 3.0T TFSI Fuel Injector Service 

Clean or replace: is the choice clear?

For years, I have been sending injectors out to be cleaned and tested. Why? Injectors are expensive, and in my humble experience, I haven’t encountered many failures. They are a simple but nifty part whose sole job is to squirt fuel into the combustion chamber. Now, it likely is just the injectors I have used (I know BMW injectors can be a little prone to failure), but in this video, I apply what I have always done… well, almost!”

Cheap fuel injector cleaners on Amazon: Are they worth it? Maybe.

I know, I know, that sounds like a cop-out. The ones I purchased and tested worked fine for 12V, but check out the video to see how they fared with 70V, 70PSI Audi injectors. Now, I did get some results, but they were not what I expected. You’ll have to watch the video to find out if I kept the machine, but it’s best to decide for yourself how useful it is. Oh, and stick around, because in the future, I have an idea on how to drastically change things!”

Resealing Audi B8 S4 V6 3.0T TFSI Injectors

It requires a special tool (details in the video), but I do show you every aspect of how to replace the combustion seal, fuel rail seals, and retaining rings on these injectors. It’s a little time-consuming but well worth doing. Oh, and remember, the combustion seal must be installed dry and free from grease!

Check out the video for all the details on the Audi B8 S4 fuel injectors. 

Video: My Audi S4 B8 Injectors were worse than I thought. Reuse them or buy new? What would you do?      

Mazda RX-8 Maintenance Nightmare!

The previous article addressed the question, ‘Why did the Mazda RX-8 Engines Start Failing‘ and attributed the issue primarily to carbon deposits and poor engine lubrication. Upon reading that, you might think the RX-8 was doomed from the start. However, the reality is that it all comes down to maintenance. I will delve deeper into Mazda’s response to these failures in the next article. For now, it’s essential to understand what could exacerbate carbon buildup and reduce engine lubrication—namely, maintenance!

Maintenance Issues

While lubrication problems and internal carbon buildup are major culprits behind engine failures, they are not the only factors. The list of contributing issues is extensive and includes slow starter motors, ineffective ignition systems, aged oil, improper engine warm-ups, blocked oil injection systems, engine flooding, frequent short drives, and extended periods of low RPMs. However, the ignition system is largely considered the main offender. This is something that changed from the RX-7 and is because the RX-8’s coils were, unfortunately, of inferior quality compared to those in the RX-7 (primarily due to cost-cutting measures). Consequently, these coils tended to fail earlier than their counterparts in other ignition systems. The next article will cover many of the common maintenance items that should be done. However it’s important to note why and below are two big factors.

RX-8 Ignition System Challenges

Modern vehicles have greatly benefited from technological advancements such as platinum spark plugs, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), and coil-on-plug distribution. As a result, many components of their ignition systems are designed to last for at least 90,000 miles or more. In contrast, rotary engines present a unique set of challenges. Due to their naturally lower torque, especially at the lower end of the rev range, they typically operate at higher RPMs. This means the ignition system in a rotary-driven vehicle essentially works harder than in a traditional piston engine. Factor in the elevated temperatures at which rotaries operate, and it becomes clear why ignition components often require replacement around every 30,000 miles. The RX-7 was somewhat of an exception to this; although its coils were more expensive, they were notably robust and had a longer lifespan.

Flooding in Rotary Engines: A Puzzling Phenomenon

The notion that a fuel-injected engine could flood might seem counterintuitive, especially to those familiar with modern vehicles. However, anyone acquainted with the Mazda RX-8 understands the reality of this predicament.

Fuel flooding in an engine happens when an excess of fuel enters the combustion chamber without ignition. This liquid fuel can then “drown” the spark plugs, inhibiting their ability to spark and ignite the air-fuel mixture (the fuel would ideally be a vapor). In traditional piston engines, flooding is typically linked to older carbureted engines where, manual choke operations or carburation issues might result in an overly rich mixture. But with rotary engines, the problem can manifest during startup due to increased fuel volumes.

Mazda, recognizing the problem, offered RX-8 drivers a solution. Contrary to expectations, pressing the gas pedal to the floor during startup doesn’t flood the engine with additional fuel. Instead, it instructs the ECU (Engine Control Unit) to stop fuel injection entirely. The recommended method entails multiple short starting attempts with intervals in between to prevent the starter motor overheating. After these attempts, the engine should be started in the regular manner.

So, what made the RX-8 prone to this issue? Theories and experiences from owners suggest several likely causes:

1. Failing Ignition System: The RX-8’s ignition components, particularly the coils, spark plugs, and plug wires or HT leads, were prone to premature wear and failure. If these components aren’t in optimal condition, the chances of a proper ignition reduce, increasing the possibility of flooding.
2. Low Compression: A rotary engine with worn seals or internal components may suffer from reduced compression. An engine with low compression struggles to generate enough pressure for the air-fuel mixture to ignite reliably.
3. Weak Battery or Starter: An old or dying battery might not provide enough power for the starter motor to turn the engine over at the necessary speed for ignition. Similarly, a failing starter may not spin the engine quickly enough.

While flooding might be viewed as a symptom of these underlying issues, it’s a stark reminder of the RX-8’s unique character and the attention it demands from its owner. If you are in this situation and the above doesn’t work, check out this article all about flooding on rx8club.com.

This is just a short note on the RX-8 Maintenance Nightmare! Next time we will get into how Mazda responded to the issues with the RX-8.

Track Mania Scripting How-To

Recently, I was sent a link to an outstanding YouTube video about someone who trained an AI to outpace them in a racing game. My curiosity was immediately piqued, and I began to wonder if this could serve as a viable platform for prototyping my AI racing driver algorithms. In this post, I’ll provide a concise guide on setting up TrackMania with a script, focusing on the one detailed in the video: Training an unbeatable AI in TrackMania

Track Mania Nations Forever Installation

From my research, TrackMania’s legacy goes back almost 20 years, to 2003. We will be using the completely free version titled “TrackMania Nations Forever.” While this version has its constraints, it’s ideal for our needs. To delve deeper into the game’s history, consult this informative Wikipedia article: Track Mania

The game can be downloaded from:  Track Mania Nations Forever.

The installation process is straightforward, and unless necessary, I’d suggest sticking with the default settings in the installer.

 

TMUnlimiter

Introduced in 2010, TMUnlimiter added innovative features to the track editor, such as the ability to create oversized maps. If you’re keen on experiencing the three levels showcased in the aforementioned video, you’ll need to install TMUnlimiter along with TrackMania and another tool known as TMInterface by Donadigo.

Download TMUnlimiter from this link: TMUnlimiter Download.

Post extraction, there’s a readme that guides you through the installation.

It’s worth noting that TMUnlimiter necessitates the x86 version of the 2010 C++ redistributable package. If you encounter an error stating it can’t find “MSVCR100.dll”, it means you may have the x64 version and will need to procure the x86 version from Microsoft’s site: Microsoft Visual C++ 2010 Redistributable Package Service Pack 1

Donadigo TMInterface

Next, we have TMInterface, a TAS (Tool Assisted Speedrun) tool for TrackMania. Essentially, it allows users to script everything from car controls to UI enhancements. For a more satirical take, you can check this video: [Warning Satire] [TUTORIAL] How to make TAS (Tool-Assisted Speedruns) in Track Mania

Downloaded from this link: Donadigo’s TMInterface website.

Follow the installation instructions on the website, taking note that the process slightly differs for Steam installations compared to standalone ones.

Running TMInterface alongside TMUnlimiter

Figuring out how to operate TMInterface in tandem with TMUnlimiter took a bit, but I chanced upon a tip on TMInterface website.

Start TMInterface (execute TMInterface.exe) to launch TrackMania Nations Forever. Before selecting your driver profile, input “load_infinity” in the TMInterface console. Afterward, you can pick your driver profile and access both TMInterface and TMUnlimiter.

Sai-Moen Wallhugger Install

Upon setting up the above, I sought ways to exploit the API for vehicle control beyond the scripting facilitated by TMInterface. In my quest, I discovered a YouTube video demonstrating a wallhugger script. Sai-Moen’s GitHub page has the Angel Script version, a direct adaptation from his original Python Wallhugger script, which is no longer supported or maintained (in the latest version of TMInterface).

To install the Angel Scripts, download a copy of Sai-Moen’s TMInterface-AS module (click on Code -> Download ZIP), which contains a module as well as some other standalone scripts. There are instructions in the README.md but when I did this it was simply a case of copying the Incremental folder and the individual .as script files to the following location: C:\Users\<username>\OneDrive\Documents\TMInterface\Plugins. Substitute your username as appropriate and if you don’t use OneDrive just find your Documents folder. Basically you’ll need to hunt down where your TMInterface\Plugins folder lives.

Running the Wallhugger Bruteforce

To execute a Bruteforce run, complete a run on the track and save a replay (alternatively you can download a replay from the internet).

Example: To save a replay of one of the levels seen in the video, make sure they are installed in the correct location and then:

1. From the main menu
2. Play Solo
3. Browse
4. Challenges
5. My Challenges (assuming this is where you installed them)
6. Level 1 (or whichever you want)
7. Play
8. [Execute a run on the keyboard]
9. Save Replay

Next, from the TMInterface console, go to the Settings tab and down to the Plugins section. You can disable everything except for the “Incremental Module”.

Still in the settings, find the Bruteforce section and select SaiMoen’s Incremental module. Check a few of the settings here including “Maximum evaluation time”. Expand the modes section and make sure wallhugger is selected. Change the other settings as appropriate.

Finally run the bruteforce by:

• From the main menu
• Editors
• Edit a Replay
• Select the replay you want to bruteforce
• Launch
• Sai Moen’s Incremental module

If everything is installed and running correctly, a new console window appears and it will start streaming. This will continue until one of three things happen:

• The finish line is reached
• The Maximum evaluation time is reached
• You hit escape

If a faster time is found, you should have a results.txt to load back into the console (“load results.txt”). Now when you attempt to drive the track again, you will see the bot drive 🙂 Happy TM’ing!

Why did the Mazda RX-8 Engines Start Failing

In this article I intend to continue the story to give you a background to the platform and to illustrate why engines swaps have been popular. As with all of this information, it comes from direct experience or information I have collected over the years. 

Why did the Mazda RX-8 Engines Start Failing? From what I have seen, the reasons behind the failures of Mazda RX-8 engines have spurred many theories. What follows is a compilation of my understanding based on the knowledge I accumulated during my time with rotary engines.

Primarily, the issues revolved around inadequate lubrication and the accumulation of carbon deposits internally. As for the root causes, there is quite a list to delve into – so brace yourself!

Oh and if you are interested in understand what signs to look for when the engine is failing, check out: Signs your RX-8 Rotary Wankel Engine is Failing

Traditional engine lubrication

To understand more about the issue, it’s important to take a quick look at how a traditional engine works. Modern four-stroke engines (found in the majority of gasoline/petrol-based cars) can trace their heritage back to the mid-1800s, originating from the work of traveling salesman Nikolaus August Otto. They have come a long way since then, but oil has remained one of the primary methods for cooling and reducing wear during that time.

In a conventional four-stroke piston engine, the rotating assembly is normally lubricated from the sump – a designated reservoir where oil collects (sumps can either be wet or dry). The oiling system in these engines directs oil straight into crankshaft and piston bearings, ensuring a consistent film of oil for the rotating parts to glide on. Additionally, oil is sprayed onto the cylinder walls and piston wristpin from beneath the piston. This layer of oil helps the piston to move up and down with minimal friction. The piston rings play a crucial role in maintaining a barrier between the combustion chamber and oil chamber. While this seal is highly effective, it is not absolutely perfect; a minuscule volume of oil invariably enters the combustion chamber burnt off. Hence a certain degree of oil consumption in piston engines is considered normal (conversely combustion gases can also enter the oil chamber).

Rotary engine lubrication

In contrast to piston engines, rotary engines present a unique challenge when it comes to lubrication. The rotating assembly in a rotary engine cannot be lubricated using traditional methods,  since the sealing surface between the engine walls and the rotating components is internal to the combustion chamber. Consequently, oil has to be directly injected into the combustion chamber to facilitate lubrication. As the combustion cycle progresses, this is burnt with the air/fuel mix. For those familiar with two-stroke engines, you might already be able to see where this is going 🙂 Unlike burning pure petrol or gasoline, burning oil results in a higher accumulation of deposits.

Engine Carbon Fouling

Carbon fouling of engines is not a novel issue. Decades ago, concerns about carbon build-up in gasoline/petrol vehicles were commonplace. Fortunately, advancements in engine and fueling technologies have brought significant improvements over the years. The introduction of electronic fuel injection was a revolutionary step, making carbon build-up less prevalent in modern engines. However, there was a slight setback with the advent of direct injection vehicles, but that topic merits its own detailed discussion.

As touched on earlier, the benefits of cleaner combustion seen in modern injection vehicles are somewhat negated in rotary engines. The practice of directly injecting and subsequently burning oil in the combustion chamber poses immediate challenges. Furthermore, achieving a complete burn in a rotary engine is more complex, necessitating two spark plugs per rotor. This complexity introduces yet another cause of increased carbon residues.

Apex Seals and Carbon Deposits: A Problematic Combination

What makes carbon deposits particularly detrimental in rotary engines? The issue primarily centers on where these carbon deposits accumulate. Each rotor has what’s known as Apex seals at the tip of each corner. These seals are mounted on tiny springs, allowing them to adapt to the contour of the rotor housing, ensuring a tight seal. However,  any deposits gathering at the rotor tips, where the Apex seals are located, can cause these seals to become jammed, preventing the tips from sliding in and out in in response to thermal expansion.

The consequence of this jamming becomes evident when the engine is hot, making the car difficult to start due to decreased compression. This happens because the distance between the rotor housing and the tip widens too much, given that the Apex seals can not slide out to engage the housing. To counteract this, the engine either has to spin more rapidly (more on this in another article) or allow the engine to cool down to regain compression.

A different challenge arises when the engine has completely cooled. If the carbon deposits hinder the Apex seal from retracting into the rotor, the space between the housing and the seal becomes too tight. This results in quicker wear of the Apex seal, ushering in a vicious cycle that further aggravates the problem.

Oil Volume: A Critical Aspect

Was stuck APEX seals due to carob deposits the only issue? Unfortunately not for the early years. It appears that, especially in the early RX-8 engines, the volume of oil injected was either insufficient or misdirected. In a deviation from the RX-7 engine’s design, the early RX-8 models featured only two oil injectors per rotor, having removed the central injector, likely for emissions considerations. Later models (from 2009-2012, termed “Series 2”), which experienced fewer complications, saw Mazda reintroduce the central oil injector, bringing the total back to three per rotor.

For the earlier “Series 1” cars (from 2004-2008), retrofitting a third injector wasn’t feasible. As a workaround, Mazda introduced updated ECU software. Dealers were then able to reflash the ECU to increase the oil volume dispensed by the two existing injectors. However, this remedy might not have been ideal. Even with the added oil, it might not have dispersed evenly throughout the combustion chamber. In cases where it wasn’t fully combusted, this could potentially contribute to heightened carbon fouling. But, this is speculative.

So here we have early engines with potentially either too little oil entering the combustion chamber for lubrication, or an excess of oil in an attempt to reach parts of the rotating assembly that the third oil injector would have previously lubricated. Not ideal.

Summary

The above material outlines my understanding of the two primary root issues that have caused many RX-8 engines to fail in the field. Unfortunately, the list of factors that could contribute to the above issues and accelerate wear is a long one, which I hope to outline in my next post!

Thanks again for reading! 

Signs your RX-8 Rotary Wankel Engine is Failing

The story continues

In Part 1 of this series, a brief overview of the RX-8 was provided, and the core issue—engine failure—was uncovered. That article was intentionally kept short and to the point. The rationale is simple: if you’ve found the article, you likely already know what the RX-8 is and are more interested in understanding the rest of the story. In today’s post, I intend to outline some of the common signs that your RX-8’s Wankel engine may be failing. These signs include:

• Trouble starting when hot
• Misfires, indicated by a flashing check engine light
• Milky oil dipstick (spoiler, it might not actually be a problem!)
• A drop in fuel economy
• Rough idle when the engine is warm
• A glowing emanating from under the car

Trouble Starting When Hot

While there are several issues associated with the RX-8 engine, the most common sign of trouble is extended cranking time when the engine is hot, sometimes even leading to a complete failure to start. This is a sure indicator that your engine is failing, and it’s probably the number-one issue people search for on the internet! If you’re interested in learning what causes this and what you can do about it, stay tuned for future posts.

Misfires, Indicated by a Flashing  Check Engine Light (CEL)

A quick note on check engine lights. It is a common misconception that a check engine will illuminate for any and all issues with a car. This is not the case (or at least it should not be). The check engine light is, in fact, a federal mandate from the EPA. Its primary purpose is to notify the driver of an emissions-related problem, urging them to address the problem as soon as possible.

When driving, if you notice a solid check engine light, it indicates a problem. Your vehicle may be emitting more pollutants than it should The official phrasing states, “your car may not be operating properly and could have a condition which wastes fuel, shortens engine life, or could lead to expensive repairs if left unaddressed. It could also be polluting the air.”

If on other hand, while driving, you observe a flashing or blinking check engine light, it signals: “a severe engine problem like a misfire is occurring which should be addressed quickly”. Why is a misfire particularly concerning? A misfire results in unburnt fuel passing through the engine and entering the exhaust system. That might not sound serious at first, but unburnt fuel reaching the catalytic convertor can cause permanent damage to it.

In essence, a blinking CEL indicates a catalyst-damaging condition that needs immediate attention. While it is technically possible to continue driving in this scenario, the longer you do so, the more damage you risk inflicting. Catalytic convertors are costly components, and damaging them is best avoided.

A compromised catalytic convertors does not just translate into a substantial replacement cost. They can lead to everything from a clogged exhaust system – increasing backpressure to hazardous levels –   to overheated catalysts that can glow visibly. Neither the engine nor its surrounding components are designed to tolerate  such extreme heat, paving the way for additional damage.

In summary, there are only two reasons you should ever see a check engine light: the issues mentioned above and during startup when it lights up to assure you it’s functional. 🙂

Milky Oil Dipstick

Observing a milky substance on your oil dipstick is not necessarily indicative of a problem, but it might suggest that your car is not reaching its full operating temperature. This phenomenon is most commonly observed during the winter due to the cooler temperatures and sometimes, higher humidity. The milky appearance results from a water/oil emulsion. Typically, the water originates from condensation forming in the vehicle’s sump.

Engaging in frequent short trips can exacerbate this issue, as the engine is not allowed to run at its normal operating temperature for long enough to evaporate or burn off the accumulated moisture. While in piston engines, such an issue could be a sign of a faulty head gasket, In the RX-8, it is relatively common. If the presence of it concerns you, consider taking your car on a longer drive to dissipate the moisture! Be warned, though: when it’s really cold outside, this might not fix the problem, as the RX-8’s cooling system is actually quite effective!”

A Drop in Fuel Economy

While the RX-8 is not exactly renowned for its  fuel economy (in the 3 years I ran a rotary I saw 14mpg to 22mpg with an average of 16.3 per tank), a noticeable decrease in your typical fuel mileage could indicate a decrease in engine compression, signaling the engine is on the bring of failure. The drop in efficiency arises because a lower compression means the engine is not functioning at its optimum level, thereby demanding more fuel per mile.

To better understand this, think of any engine as a pump – because, fundamentally that is what they are! If a pump’s seals aren’t sealing adequately, it will not be able to pump as much fluid with each stroke, the fluid will exit the pump at a decreased pressure. This diminished pressure illustrate the efficiency of the pump. In this analogy, the pressure correlates with the fuel economy you see (and in fluid dynamics gases are treated the same).

Rough Idle When Warm

Rotary engines,  especially the RX-8’s Renesis variant, are typically characterized by their buttery-smooth operation. This smoothness results from the fact that for every revolution of the engine, there are there combustion and compression cycles per rotor. This is unlike a four-stroke piston engine, which fires each piston every other revolution.

For a twin-rotor engine like the 13B, this equates to six firing events every complete revolution. However, it is important to note that the transmission input shaft on this engine, rotates at only 1/3 of this speed, thanks to the gearing relationship between the rotors and the eccentric shaft. In contrast, a four-piston engine would fire twice per revolution.

Consequently, if you observe any juddering or unevenness whilst idling, it is a definitive sign that something might be amiss, with ignition issues being a probable culprit.

Glowing Under the Car Post-Drive

Returning to the topic of catalytic convertors: if you notice a glow beneath your car after driving, particularly after intense or hard driving, it is a strong indication that your catalytic convertors overheating. This is serious concern and needs to requires immediate attention.

Conclusion

The points mentioned above are not an exhaustive list, but they are issues that I’ve experienced while running a rotary engine. I later discovered that many others have faced similar challenges. If you want to find out more, head over to RX8Club.com to delve deep into the community and read about other people’s experiences.

In my next post, I intend to explore what I understand to be the underlying causes of rotary engine failure.

Thanks for reading!

Next Article: Why did the Mazda RX-8 Engine Start Failing?

What is a Mazda RX-8 and why is it Special?

What is going on here

This is Part 1 of a series of articles addressing the reasons why swapping the engine in an RX-8 is so popular. It will start off with some history in the early sections, delve into the problems that the RX-8 faced, and then finally provide you, the reader, with the information you need to make your own decision. Now, of course, I did perform an LS swap on my RX-8, but was it the right thing to do? Buckle up, sit down with a tasty beverage, and join me on the journey!”

So, what is a Mazda RX-8 exactly?

The Mazda RX-8 is a legendary sports car that was produced by the Japanese automaker Mazda from 2003 to 2012. It is known for its unique rotary engine, agile handling, and unusual rear-hinged doors referred to as ‘suicide doors’.

In total, nearly two hundred thousand RX-8s were produced between 2003 and 2012, according to Official Mazda RX-8 Sales figures. While the Mazda RX-8 boasts many positive attributes, such as its nimble handling and distinctive rotary engine, it also had its drawbacks. These included high maintenance costs, poor fuel efficiency, and surprisingly small cabin.

The most significant issue with the platform began to surface in the early models, specifically those from 2003-2004 (referred to as 04/05 models in the US). Shortly after its launch, there were reports of engines failing from low compression. The primary culprit was the notorious wearing of the APEX seals. This wear was often caused carbon clogging (coking) in the engine, which prevented the APEX seals at the tips of the rotors from sliding in and out due to thermal expansion. This restriction led to accelerated APEX seal wear, which in turn caused the engine to fail from low compression.

Part 2: Signs your RX-8 Rotary Wankel Engine is Failing

Video: Ever asked, Should I LS Swap My RX-8? I did, here is the result!

Should You Buy a Salvage Audi B8 S4? 

I Bought Two Audi B8 S4s Without Seeing them First to Take Racing

OK, I must have a problem and I cannot stop myself! I can’t remember exactly how, but earlier this year, I stumbled across the B8/B8.5 3.0T Supercharged Audi S4 platform and concocted a crazy plan to purchase a couple of them to race. You might have seen my other post on the subject. Well, after finally resolving all the issues with liens and titles, here they are!

Audi B8 S4 Common Questions Answered

This series of videos intends to answer many of the common questions I saw when researching the platform. This includes:

• Should I buy a car without a sports differential?
• B8 or B8.5 Audi S4?
• Are they good track cars?
• What can I do to improve braking on track?
• What are the best performance tires to use on the Audi B8 S4?
• Should I worry about purchasing an Audi S4 with over 100K miles?
• What are the common maintenance items that need to be done on the B8 Audi S4?
• How do I carbon clean the intakes on the B8 Audi S4?
• How to hunt down a parasitic battery drain on an Audi S4?
• Should I modify my supercharged Audi S4?
• What is the best suspension setup for the Audi S4?
• …. and many more

Should You Buy an B8 Audi S4?

I did not delve into this in the video, but so far, I am impressed. The platform is very capable and comfortable. In the past, I have driven a variety of cars, from the Mazda Miata to a Ferrari 458 Speciale. Now, while the S4 cannot compare to something like the 458, it has certainly piqued my interest and rightly so.

In doing my research, I could not find any other platform with as much opportunity for tuning from such a robust starting point. The video touches on the briefly, but from what I have discovered, these engines are quite robust!

How Does the B8 S4 Compare to the RS5?

My 2013 Audi RS5 still has under 30K miles on the clock, but it is stock and a high revving V8. It is unfair for me to compare the experience there to the 2015 B8.5 S4 shown in the video. Why? Because the S4 had been heavily modified and was previously totaled. My initial experience driving the car ~600 miles from Milwaukee to Kansas City wasn’t the best, largely due to the terrible exhaust the previous owner had installed (never, ever, ever put a straight-through exhaust on this car!). 

However, the car is growing on me.  As I start to set things straight, I find myself connecting with it more and more. To be continued!

One fascinating thing to note, though, is that while they likely have different software tunes, the transmissions and differentials appear to be the same and share many identical parts. Good old Audi.

Video: I Purchased Two Audi S4s Sight Unseen to take Racing!

Frequent oil changes will make your engine last longer…. period!

Ever heard this joke? 

Q: “How long is a piece of string?” 
A: “Twice the length from the middle.” 😀 

If you ask someone (or google/search the internet) about how often you should change your car’s oil, you’ll likely get an answer as ambiguous as the joke above.

Why asking about engine oil change frequency is never a straight answer?

There are numerous factors at play:

• The type of oil you’re using (conventional vs. synthetic).
• The oil brand and any additives.
• The conditions under which the engine operates (e.g., temperature, humidity, exposure to dust, sand, salt).
• The car’s age and its past maintenance.
• Whether the oil level has ever run low.
• How often the oil was changed previously. …and the list goes on.

Truthfully, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. A lot depends on your objectives and how/where you drive. Are you racing your car on a track? If so, you’ll get different advice compared to someone driving primarily for fuel economy.

So who is this for?

To narrow down the scope, let’s frame the question regarding engine oil change frequency as:

“I own a performance vehicle and aim to protect my engine while achieving maximum performance.”

While we won’t dive into which specific oil to use (that topic alone could fill libraries!), let’s assume you’re using the factory-recommended oil for your engine.

The short and simple answer to how often I should change my engine oil:

For those seeking a straightforward response: as long as you maintain the engine within standard operating conditions (oil level not reaching the ‘red’ mark and water temperature staying within the standard range), changing the oil every 3,000 miles is likely the best guidance. However, for cars that see infrequent use, changing the oil at least once a year is advisable.

OK but I want to know if that is a waste of money or not often enough?

For a more comprehensive answer without diving deep into details: adhere to the above, but also consider an oil analysis annually or every other oil change. Companies like Blackstone Labs or Wix offer such services (rokauto is a great place to pick up oil sample kits). Personally, I get an oil analysis with every change because I prefer detailed insights over time. For instance, with my BMW M5 S85 V10, I’m keen on monitoring my rod bearings!

Understanding every aspect of the oil analysis might be challenging. The brief summaries provided by these companies can offer crucial guidance regarding engine oil change frequency. In essence, an oil analysis is the most definitive way to gauge if you’re changing the oil at the right intervals for your specific oil, engine, and driving habits. In the industrial sector, routine oil analyses are standard practice due to their importance.

What else can an oil analysis tell me?

Beyond just checking oil health, oil analysis can also detect other engine issues. In the past, such tests have identified a failed head gasket for me (evidenced by coolant in the oil), fueling issues (like running too rich or having faulty rings – fuel detected in the oil), and many more. Additionally, these tests can provide feedback on the oil you’re using, potentially offering insights into whether it’s offering adequate protection for your engine.

E60 Differential Oil Change is Easy!

Based on the color of the oil and the content of the Blackstone report, this change was way past due. The differential had no leaks, and thankfully, wasn’t making any noise. This is one thing that you need to check when buying an M5, as a replacement can be costly. 

The only thing you have to be careful about is using the right torque for the plugs. There are two different types: one with a washer and one with an o-ring. It’s only a 5NM difference, so it’s not the end of the world. 

The oil change kit came from FCP Euro, and interestingly, it had a Mercedes sticker on the bottle. I guess if it’s good stuff, it’s good stuff 🙂

Don’t delay, change the oil on your BMW E60 M5 V10 Differential today!

FCP kit link. Part number from FCP is: 33117525064KT6 – Contains 3x500ml bottles of 75W140 Castrol Syntax LSD Oil and two differential plugs (OEM part number 33117525064). OEM differential oil is 3-4x the price. The OEM part number for the oil if you’re interested is 83222282583.

You will need a 14mm hex socket and a torque wrench capable of 65NM. Gearwrench have a socket that is widely available and has the part number 80662. Amazon of course has a bunch available that are cheaper. There are some lower profile ones which might work better with the exhaust. 

Video link